CHRISTMAS EVE IN KOLN

En route to Amsterdam
 

We got away on time, surprisingly. Suitcases outside the room at 6.45, breakfast at 7.00, loaded at 7.45 and away soon after 8.00. Not much traffic through the city but once we got on the ring road, the volumes started building. Although there was no snow in town, there is quite a lot in the country and the temperature has dropped from 6C to 4C so far.

We stopped for a refreshment break and by then the temp had dropped to 3C : it subsequently went to 2C before getting back to 5C in Brussels, possibly because of all the hot air there. I don't know if it is my hot flushes or the bus system, but every now and then I get VERY hot and sweaty, as I am now. We're on the outskirts of Amsterdam as I write in heavy traffic and there is snow all around. We've certainly got what we ordered!

The Brussels stop was like the curate's egg - good in parts. Silly Natalie really doesn't have a clue. We wound our way slowly into the city, pas the central square and on a couple of blocks before twisting and turning our way through what was a surprisingly hilly city. The bus duly stopped and she told us to disembark and then, without another word headed off down hill at a fair pace, bearing in mind the age and ice walking experience of her flock. She paused every now and then for the stragglers to catch up, but never a word of her plan. 

We finally got to the Central Square and she halted and gathered us around for a ten minute lecture on the buildings. The mob was getting a bit agitated, being more interested in food drink and sightseeing. Eventually she told us that we had 50 minutes and were to meet in front of the Godiva shop. 

That didn't give us much time, especially as our first stop was the public toilets. We felt we didn't really have time for a meal so we grabbed some Belgian fries with mayonnaise and ate them on the trot. Nothing special about them - just chips. But at least this gave us a chance to look at, and sample the delicious goods in the chocolate shops. (incidentally as I write this we are passing through woods with trees whitened with snow - or perhaps more accurately coated with the white stuff.)

Although I thought we were on the outskirts of Amsterdam but we were two hours plus away. It was a long day in the end, but we had a warm welcome on the ship. The staff seemed very pleasant indeed and our cabin, while small is well appointed and very comfortable. 

Amsterdam Wednesday 22 December 2010

We slept like logs after our long journey yesterday but had to be up quite early for breakfast ahead of our pre-booked tour to see the windmills.

It was still snowing intermittently and very cold with a wind whipping in - presumably from the North Sea. Every one was on time and we had a very nice courier, whose name we never caught or remembered.

It was quite a long drive out to the windmill museum. They have collect examples of the various different designs (often related to function) as the old windmills were replaced by steam or diesel engines. She told us that at one stage there were over 10,000 windmills, many of them pumping the polders dry.

The drive has fascinating because the areas we were driving through were all recover land and in many of the places the wealthy VOC merchants had build their mansions. A feature of the designs of these houses was not the typical Cape Dutch gables, but a very high pyramid roof. They looked as if they had cake covers on top of them. Most had snowy caps, so presumably were well insulated.

The Windmill Museum was, naturally, a very large open space, with mills doted around the periphery. The snow was deep, the wind was keen and visibility was reduced by the snow and/or sleet flying at us. We had what are termed Quiet Vox earpieces which transmit from the wireless microphone used by the guide. They were very effective and she was very interesting, but in the end Rab gave up and we turned back. We headed for the shop, which was warm and met up with a couple who look Japanese, but are in fact Indons and chatted to them for a while. Heading for the Bar for a cup of coffee, we saw a black and white cat romping in the snow. He was trotting around quite happily and at one stage actually rolled in a patch, as cats do in the sand. We also bumped into our group heading for the clog making factory. Some of the old clogs were amazing and there were banks and banks of new ones which were not meant to be merely souvenirs but were to be worn. They are said to be very comfortable once you get used to them - and very warm.

We lost interest in the clog maker himself and slipped away again to get our coffee, joining Gus and his wife. As we headed back to the bus, we saw our sweet little kitty running around with what looked like a mouse or eat in his mouth. Alas, it was a robin redbreast and although it was still fluttering, it was clearly on it's last legs. I was surprised that he had managed to find a bird because we had seen no sign of any at that stage.

Off we went on our next leg, to the cheese factory. Again we saw some beautiful countryside on the way to the farm/factory and what a selection when we got there! We happily tried many of the selections on offer and finally settled for a four pack of varied cheeses plus a nice looking piece of mature Edam - my personal favourite.
 

Back on board, we settled in to our cabin and finished stowing away all our goods, before we set sail for Koln. The initial part of the journey was through a canal in fairly flat country which seemed to be mainly farming. We saw quite a lot of animals in the snow, sheep, horses, cattle but not a lot of houses. Once we crossed the German border, there seemed to be many more houses close to the river. They really looked charming.

Cologne Thursday 23 December 2010

What a way to wake up. We opened the curtains and there was a little village going past us. The air was crystal clear and it was surprisingly light - we could see every detail. Soon after that the view became less residential, but still interesting. We lay abed for about an hour, just watching the scenery move by - snow everywhere.

We had a good breakfast and then just chatted in the lounge until Frank came along with his briefing for the rest of the voyage. He is very good, I must say. A light lunch, to prepare ourselves for the shore trip, and we were ready to go when the ship docked at Cologne at about 2.00. But before we could get off, the captain wanted a word. There is potential trouble ahead with the locks. They are already freezing and the forecast is for more cold weather so the chances are that we will not be able to use them. If this is the case, then we'll have to transfer ships in a couple of days with the Ruby waiting for us on the other side of the frozen locks.

Having got that out of the way, Frank led us to the Cathedral, passing two of the vaunted Xmas Markets on the way. Snow was falling quite heavily for most of the day and it was lovely walking through the flakes as they drifted down. Rab went boot hunting again, with a conspicuous lack of success. None of the shop assistants seemed all that keen on a sale and one insulted her by sneering that they didn't keep shoes for such wide feet!

After this abortive trip we headed for the Xmas Markets and found that both of them, like the Paris one had a lot to eat and drink, a few stalls with some quite interesting goods, but by and large nothing of great interest. A bit disappointing after all the build up. 

We were a little cold and tired at this stage, so went along for a beer at Peter's Brauhaus. Lovely spot with an amusing waiter who plied us with beer. We decided to eat there. After reading the menu. Rab had Rheinische Sauerbrode and I had Scweinhaxe as my main course, having foolishly decided that a starter of potato soup with bacon would be warming. It was. But it was also a meal in itself- but delicious. Our main courses were also excellent and when we got back to the ship at about 6.30, Rab was ready for bed. She opened the curtains and went to sleep with a wonderful view of some delightful old warehouse buildings and a church spire. I'm about to join her. A lovely day altogether.

Cologne/Bonn Friday 24 December 2010

Rab had closed the curtains during the night, but opened then again when we woke. The scene we had gone to bed with was even better this morning because it had been snowing steadily during the night and all the buildings, including the church tower, were outlined in white. There was quite a deposit on our balcony and on the rails and ropes.

There was a walking tour of the city this morning, but we declined. Rab stayed on the ship, but I went ashore for a couple of hours looking for picturesque pictures - and there were many! It was very cold this morning at about -6C with a cold wind blowing in the snow and some icy bits that were presumably hail. I rugged up and when crunching off to the bridge ahead of us to see if there were some good shots from there. I got a couple of that made the climb worthwhile, but it was certainly cold up there.

I made my way back into town, which was amazingly quiet. Many shops weren't open and those that were closed early at about noon. Hardly anyone on the streets - really odd. I slowly made my way to the Dome and got some nice interior shots. Exterior ones were more difficult as the building is so enormous and there was also a lot of scaffolding about as they are renovating it.

On the way back to the ship, I came across St Nicholas - a bagman by the look of him, riding an ancient bicycle complete with Xmas tree and sundry, rather ratty, toys hanging from every point. His dog trotted happily alongside. I gather they were headed to the Dome for a bit of begging.

We had a light lunch and expect to leave for Bonn at about four.

Later: We did leave spot on time - a feature of the cruise is the punctuality. It is very rare for anything to be late, and went up the river to Bonn where we tied up to enable people to go to the Basilica for a service.

We were invited to drinks with KAK which was pleasant. There was no traditional Xmas dinner - turkey/ham etc - but, as ever the food was excellent. The staff formed a choir, led by one of the cabin. Girls and sang Christmas songs. When we got to our cabin, we found a box of chocolates, two Santas and a Xmas greeting.

As usual, we left our door ajar to keep the temp right, and during the night, it slid back so the door was completely open, which kept the cabin to an excellent temperature - at least for me.