Monday, November 25, 2013

1983 - Snow and QE2 - Friday 30 December 1983 – Leaving New York City



Friday 30 December 1983 – Leaving New York City

Another good day today. Set our clock for an early start (at 07.00) so that Rab could wash her hair but we didn’t get off much earlier thanks to Ira Joe and his friends. The sun was shining beautifully and our room was hot as hell, so Rab and Matt were all for leaving off some of their heavy gear. But Ira had said that it was 17°F in Central Park (We were not used to converting Fahrenheit to Centigrade and didn’t realise that this made it about -8 °C) When I nipped out to the Fox to drop off a film for developing I found out just how cold it was – well below freezing.

So I persuaded everyone to dress warmly and we set off, after making a hotel reservation for San Diego and leaving our bags to be picked up later. While we were waiting in the foyer, an oddbod came up to us and tried to borrow a comb from us! When we refused he went on to pester other people in the lobby. Matt suggested he may have been an eccentric millionaire!. We were soon heading for Battery Park and the ferry to the Statue of Liberty. Very nice cabbie and not too expensive, but we missed the ferry by a couple of minutes and had to wait an hour for the next one. There was a refreshment kiosk at the terminal so Matt and Rab had a hot dog and a donut  while I went on my walk.

Seeing ice like this was an unusual experience for us
A man's home is his castle
It really was freezingly cold down by the river and I was fascinated to see large lumps of ice floating around. There are some really impressive memorials down there and also an old castle which, like Cape Town Castle, was never used to fight in anger. I was amused to see that a bum had made one of the castle windows as his home and was ensconced there in his sleeping bag away from the biting wind. (It was unusual for us to see destitute people. Not that there were none in Zimbabwe, but they were kept away from the city centre.)

The ferry duly arrived and we got in line and then we were off. Matt and Rab stayed below in the warmth of the cabin, but there were such magnificent views of Manhattan in the sunshine that I stayed out on deck. It was perishingly cold there of course, so much so that when I took my gloves off to change a lens it felt as if I had frostbite and it took me a while to get my fingers working again.
On the freezing ferry

Unfortunately we could only stay an hour at the Statue as we had to catch the 15.30 bus back to Ringwood. There is only one elevator up the Statue to the base, which is ten stories high, so the line was quite a long one. I was tempted to walk  right up to the crown – another twelve stages – but in view of the shortage of time and the fact that the view from there is said to be limited, I gave it a miss. Lovely views from the pedestal however – plenty of helicopters and light aircraft buzzing around. It would have been a terrific day for a helicopter flip today.
 
Upskirting Liberty
We caught the ferry back in good time and this time I too stayed below. A short walk through the park – quite a few squirrels frolicking around and then another cab ride back to Lexington Avenue, this time to Bloomingdales to see if we could find Jack Klugman’s Korn Krib serving gourmet popcorn in twenty eight flavours. No problem in getting to Lexington but before looking for the popcorn we had a bite to eat in a very nice coffee shop. I had souvlaki on pita – a new taste experience – and enjoyed it,

After lunch we found the popcorn parlour with no trouble and bought what they called “small” packets of watermelon, pina colada and apple for ourselves and a large pizza flavour for the Schafers. Time was getting a bit short, so we hotfooted it back to the hotel to pick up our bags, which we did without any problems having bought a new wheeled flight bag as my old faithful blue bag was coming apart at the seams under the weight of our books.

Out we went to get a cab and that’s when our problems started. We were still there twenty minutes later. All the efforts of the diminutive doorman, jumping up and down, waving his arms, blowing his whistle were in vain. Only one cab stopped in this time, asked where we were going and then drove off! Finally the doorman gave up and I approached the somewhat surly driver of a cab parked up from the hotel who was, so he said, waiting for a fare, why no one would pick us up. It turned out that this was change over time and none of the drivers was interested in anything but getting back to their garage and finishing their shift.

We were getting a bit desperate because we had arranged with Nora for her to meet a specific bus and we also wanted to avoid the rush hour (or commute as it is known here). The bus we intended to catch only ran every hour, so if we missed the intended one it would be very awkward. Finally an angel in a Cadillac turned up – well, perhaps gnome might be a more accurate description. It was a limo driver who pulled up next to us and, quite illegally, offered to take us to the bus station for $10 – about four times the cab fare.

We didn’t hesitate and piled in – Matt up front next to the driver. What a hairy drive it was too, culminating in a U-tun at the bus station when we narrowly missed a collision with a flying Datsun. We hurtled through the holiday crowds to the platform where we thought the bus was leaving from but found we were at the wrong place, at the top of an escalator with no obvious way down and with ten minutes to go to take-off!

Dodging busses we crossed over several lanes to the correct platform but found that for some extraordinary reason there were two busses with the same number leaving within minutes of each other but going to different destinations. Managed to push our way through to the correct one with Rab leaping ahead to get tickets from the driver. By the time I arrived, laden with the luggage, she was just starting a terrific argument with the driver who insisted that the bus did not go where she said she wanted to go and in any event he didn’t issue tickets which we should have purchased in the concourse.

Tempers got a little frayed before the language barriers were finally crossed and I must say in defence of Rab that she was the innocent party. We bought our tickets and boarded the bus with all our goods under the glares of the other passengers and the muttered imprecations of the driver. (We have often said that this was the only time we ever encountered any rudeness in all our trips to the USA – and who could blame the driver on New Year’s Eve with snow being threatened trying to deal with a couple of really dim aliens who couldn’t speak proper American English!)

From then on the trip was uneventful although we were twenty minutes late in the end. Uli was there to pick us up having knocked off early. We were given a very warm welcome by all, including young Rocky. We had a very pleasant evening, just chatting and having a few glasses of wine.

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