Wednesday 2 May 1984 – Mahe #4
Slept like a
log last night and although my cold is still a darned nuisance I feel much
better. I decided I would explore the South and Western parts of the island.
Lars decided to join me.
So we took
all our swimming gear with us to the conference and on the way, after
confirming our flights at Kenya Airways office in Victoria I hired a snorkel,
mask and flippers from the Reef Hotel. They were free to guests so I only had
to pay a refundable deposit. There was a lot of concern about the Kenya Airways
flight because they were confirming all bookings without referring to any kind
of records. Whilst I was pretty certain that we would all get on, I would have
been happier to know definitely.
We stayed at
the conference for the first session but then left before the panel discussions
started knowing what it was likely to be with endless, repetitive, boring
statements being made, but very little discussion.
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| Me and the trusty Mini Moke |
Since we were very hot we
made straight for the beach and reef at Anse Royale just near the conference
centre. We were soon in the water, sharing the goggles. We didn’t go right out
to the reef but saw many lovely fish anyway. We had started to head back to the
beach when I saw a policeman standing by our goods. I thought I must have
parked incorrectly, but when I got to him he told me that we should never leave
anything unattended as there were “bandits” about.
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| Palms and white sand - irresistable. |
After a
brief stop in the village to pick up some bread and cheese for our lunch – we
could not get a beer because they are only sold after 14.00 – we headed down to
the Southern part of the island. What a beautiful drive it was too. The scenery
is too pretty for words – lovely white beaches glimpsed through the palms;
waves crashing down on granite outcrops; green jungley growth everywhere.
Crossing over to the Western side we had a bite to eat at a little beach where
there were some pretty big waves coming in as it faced directly into the wind
which blows from the south east at this time of the year.
On we drove
stopping at the house of a painter, Paul West, who has been living in the Seychelles for
the past twelve years. I didn’t enquire about the costs of his works because it
was all abstract, although having said that I did like some of it. By now it
was past 14.00 so we bought a couple of beers and finished off our lunch in the
shade of a tree at Anse la Bouche, a lovely sheltered bay where there were a
number of beach cottages for hire. The Faux and Pitman parties are staying
there. It is ideal for a family because the water is so safe.
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| Anse la Bouche |
We pressed
on after lunch and had a good look at the three hotels on this side of the
island. All looked very nice but they were exposed to the south easter and were
very windy. None of them had beaches either. There is no doubt that, at this
time of the year anyway, Beau
Vallon Bay
where we are staying is the best place to be and I think the Coral Strand may
be the best hotel. We stopped for a magnificent ice cream at the Equator Hotel
– a sort of parfait with coconut and mango and Cointreau – delicious.
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| The view from the Equator Hotel |
After going
as far as we could to the North, through a very large mangrove swamp as a
matter of fact, we were stopped by some uniformed girls and told we could go no
further. It seems that a National Youth Service camp has been established in
the reserve in the north of the island. On our way back we passed a troupe of
girls jogging in step singing what were presumably revolutionary martial songs.
We also saw another platoon being drilled by a couple of sergeants in uniform
so perhaps the place is not as peaceful as it looks.
We got back
to Victoria
via the San Souci road which winds its way up to the peaks above the town
before descending into the town itself. Some really good views on the way. We
almost had an accident on the way down when a crazy Seychellois was on our side
of the road. Fortunately he saw us in time. They are not the world’s greatest
drivers I must say.
We got back
to the Coral Strand about 17.00 in time for a swim and a quick drink –
grapefruit juice for me – before packing and getting ready to go across to the
Reef Hotel for the farewell dinner. There was also a cocktail party at the
British Embassy but I never received an invitation, which suited me just fine.
Lars and some of the others were all for wearing suits since the dinner was the
final function, but luckily for them I persuaded them to just go casual.
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| A last sunset - looking across to Silhouette Island |
No one ever
wears a collar and tie in the Seychelles
from the President down. It was said that the Minister of Education who opened
the conference on Monday had been embarrassed because there were so many
delegates wearing suits despite clear instructions on the conference
invitations. They were mainly Poms and the delegates from ex-British colonies.
Some stuck resolutely to this wear throughout the conference although most were
in casual gear. It was interesting to see some of the outfits worn by the
delegates. The one I liked particularly was a suit worn by one of the blokes
from West Africa which was cream embroidered
lace. He was about my size and I was tempted to make him an offer!
The final
dinner went off very well. The food was much the same as before but with a
different flavour as it was a Creole evening. The curried octopus was
particularly good. There was a troupe dancing the Creole dances and they were
excellent. Some of the dances seemed very similar to hornpipes and reels, which
may have reflected the British influence. I can still hear some of the music in
my head – I really enjoyed it. I was sitting at a nice table with a couple of
Swiss Re and Munich Re blokes so we had a good evening.
I got back
to my room about 23.00 and finished packing. I also finally got around to
writing the postcards which I had bought, complete with stamps on Monday to
make sure I got them off.
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