2008 ITALIAN ODYSSEY - Lake Idro

Wednesday September 24, 2008 – Gargnano

It looked like another lovely sunny day judging by the sliver of sky we can see from our minute balcony. We have only had one rainy day since we have been here. Waking to the gentle tolling of the bells of a nearby church was special. I thought it was delightful and recorded it on my camera. Gianni said it drove him mad as it plays twice a day every day in season. Rab soon told me to stop playing it too.

We had a wonderful breakfast on the hotel veranda watching the sun break over the mountains to the East and start warming it up. Great spot; great breakfast – lemon filled brioche still warm from the bakery across the street with fresh fruit juice, coffee and ham for the croissant. What more could anyone ask for?

 

Ready for the off.

The plan today was to drive up to Lake Idro (which I guessed, correctly as it turned out, was short for Idroelettrico or Hydroelectric – a very clear name) via Limone which was north of us. Taking Gianni’s advice however we reversed the route and went up to Lake Idro by what he said was a much more scenic route. (Map Here) And indeed it was. We took a small road just outside Gargnano to start with. What a road that was – more twists and turns than a politician at election time. Fortunately in very good condition and with not much traffic. Again we were struck by how many motor cycles we saw. They seem a very popular form of transport here.

 

Lower reaches of Lake Idro

Is that Sleeping Beauty behind?

The views were spectacular and we stopped a couple of times for photo opportunities. One of these stops was at a little village called Capovalle at the head of a pass (hence the name Head of the Valley). It was pretty nippy up there – 9°C according to the car’s thermometer. Over the pass heading towards the foot of the lake the Crones were delighted to find a village with their name and wondered if there was any connection. We all had a laugh about that - there was some doubt given their Yorkshire background – but took a shot of them by the road sign anyway. Nearby was a most curious monument to the Alpini troops who had fought here. The statues looked as if they would be more in place in a Disney park.

A happy mob.

On we went through the mountains and stopped at the head of the lake for lunch. I had bought fresh rolls from the baker and delicious ham, salami and cheese while Mike had bought some local red wine. That was less good than the food – rotgut being one description, but then at Є2.99 a litre one couldn’t expect more.

 

Head of Lake Idro

It was absolutely stunningly beautiful: sunny and warm with hardly a breeze to disturb the water. In the photos we took it is difficult to tell which way up the shot should be because the reflections are so clear. The water was clear too – we could even see trout lazing along in the shallows. Magic in a   word.

 

Mountains and water - good combination

On our way, still through lovely country and villages (and tunnels  - Sue was counting them at one time and got up to thirty one before she gave up) winding our way down to “sea level” just south of Riva del Garda and heading for Limone sul Garda. This was something of a pilgrimage for the Crones because it was where their other son, Simon had married, an event they could not attend.

Limone is one of the major tourist destinations on Lake Garda and was quite busy, with a number of coaches in the car park above the town. The pathway/road down to water level was cobbled and very steep and I must say I wasn’t too keen on heading  down it. We’d had a long day – it is quite tiring driving at these levels of concentration – and my feet were still giving a bit of gyp from Venice.

Limone bell tower.

But…..it was important for them, so we staggered on down, wondering how the heck the bridal party had managed the trip – and more importantly WHY? Turned out to be a bit of a damp squib in the end as the hotel where the wedding breakfast was held was closed as was access to the terrace where the ceremony took place. So we had a coffee at one of the lakeside bars, watching the passing show, and then slowly and steadily trudged back to the parking garage. We were soon on our way back to the Hotel Riviera via an incredible bit of road and more tunnels. These tunnels were amongst the most scary I had driven through to date. Carved many years ago when vehicles were somewhat slimmer and with rather poor lighting they frightened both me and the passengers.

The restaurant where we ate last night was closed but there was another nearby which was as good. We still laugh at Rab’s outfit. It was pretty cold again and she didn’t have much warm clothing, so wore her pyjama top as a spencer and was as snug as a bug.

And so to bed after another cracker of a day. They just seem to get better.