2008 ITALIAN ODYSSEY - Praiano

Monday October 6, 2008 – Praiano

We left bright and early this morning and headed South – 365 km/225 miles – to Praiano. Most of the way we were on the A1 which was very good. There was light traffic and a good surface so we were able to travel at the speed limit of 130 kph/80 mph most of the way. There were no signs of the ‘lunatic’ drivers that are regarded as typical of the Italians. In fact very few vehicles passed us. Two memorable ones which did were a Maserati which came purring up behind me – what a sight – and smoothly disappeared into the distance. The other was less impressive a small Town Car straining every inch to get past at what must have been its maximum speed. Not a car I would drive at that speed. I must say that generally, I think the drivers are very good - they certainly know how long and wide their cars are to the millimetre.

The toll for the entire trip on the autostrada was about Є15 which seemed reasonable. We were less happy about paying the Є1.50 charge when we turned off the main road near Naples. The roads were appalling full of potholes and a scarcity of signs. The garbage dispute (allegedly involving the mafia) was at its height and there was rubbish everywhere, some burning not far from the road. Any thoughts of actually visiting Naples were finally dismissed.

 

Naples and Vesuvius

I had been dreading driving along the coastal road – Praiano is situated about half way between Sorrento and Amalfi – which has featured in many scary films and TV programs about the fear created by the mad Italian drivers on this narrow road with the steep plunge down to the sea. Although there were some tense moments and it was a tiring business, it was not as bad as I had imagined it would be.

First view of Praiano - on the point in the distance

The road was indeed very narrow and for much of the way there was not much to stop you going over the edge. Cars parked along both sides, pedestrians in the villages through which the road goes both presented problems as did the very large tourist coaches. But without doubt it was the two wheeled vehicles – scooters and buzz bikes mainly – that caused the most angst. They would appear from nowhere weaving in and out of the traffic on either side of the road hooting and revving their bikes. Quite unnerving.

Le Fioriere - our room on the upper floor has the palm

The hotel Rab chose here - Hotel Le Fioriere is excellent. It is a small family run place clean and tidy. Our room overlooks the main road, which can be a little noisy, but what a view!! 

 

The view from our room

It looks due West so the sunset is spectacular. I know I’ll take too many shots while we are here – never could resist a good sunset. We can see Capri in the distance. I love it down here already!

The hotel does not serve an evening meal but the owner was only too happy to suggest a number of places where we could eat in the village. We thought a light meal would be best so climbed a long flight of stairs to the pizzeria he had recommended and had some good pasta there.

Our first sunset - glorious