BERMUDA AND NEW ENGLAND IN SPRING - BAR HARBOR ME

Thursday 1 June 1995 Bar Harbor, ME

We left Boothbay Harbor with a deal of regret – it certainly was a top spot, so much so that we even toyed with the idea of staying a bit longer. Our  tentative plan was to breakfast in Wiscasset a little town just back down the highway but could not find a spot there so pressed on to Newcastle. It was already warming up, as predicted on the forecast – about 25C. The breakfast was good but the service was a bit slow and the proprietor was pleasant enough. We had a bit of a laugh because yesterday Rab picked a venue outside of which a road crew were working with jackhammers. No sooner had we sat down this morning than they were at it again. And blimey, if the same thing didn’t happen this evening when we had supper. We reckon they must be following us.

We could not travel on the smaller roads today because there were not any, but at least we stayed on the #1 North rather than the 93, which is a turnpike. There were warnings about moose on the roads. Apparently there are black flies in the woods which irritate the moose and they seek open spaces. According to the local paper an old boy in his seventies died when he hit a moose yesterday on the 93. killed the moose too. (Funny to think I ever thought anyone in their 70s as ‘old’. Time changes perceptions.) But we didn’t see anything apart from the odd squirrel. We have seen very little wildlife apart from them, a couple of chipmunks, a woodchuck and a tortoise. The last was spotted about to cross the 27 at Boothbay yesterday afternoon. A couple of cars had stopped and a grey haired old matron was hobbling towards the tortoise – at about the same speed – to herd it to safety.

The drive up here took about three hours and there was not a lot to see except the woods and the odd small town. It was interesting to see how the woods gradually changed colour as the mix of trees changed. More pine trees started appearing with their darker green contrasting with the lighter beeches. We had some doubts about what Bar Harbor would be like since the approaches to the town had a distinctly tacky air. Waterworld “Not in Working Order”; greasy looking eating shacks; barns of flea markets. But once we crossed the bridge to Desert Island everything changed and it is a truly stupendously beautiful place from what we have seen so far.

Pretty nice view

The receptionist at Tugboat Annie suggested we have a look at the hotel we are staying at – The Bar Harbor Inn, which is clearly owned by the same people since the layout and the furnishings are the same. They offered a good discount as well and the situation of the hotel is marvellous – right on the waters edge. As we sat on our balcony we could hear the water lapping as we watched the activity on the water.(We had learned on previous trips to the USA to bargain for hotel rooms, something that was certainly not done at that time in South Africa where the price was the price.) There was a stately schooner under full sail which looked so good. Since the weather was still fine and is notoriously fickle up here, we decided to go up Cadillac Mountain this afternoon even though the predictions are that the weather will be fine most of the day.

The drive up the mountain which at 1,530 feet is said to be the highest peak on the East Coast of the US was spectacular as was the view from the top. There was a bit of a haze presumably because of the heat and lack of wind but even so, the spread of islands, sea and lakes in the 360 degree panoramic view takes a lot of beating. 

The view from Mt Cadillac

We will probably stay here two nights to get a good look at the country. The forests are very different to those further south and although the wild pears and apples are in blossom, the lilac is only beginning to bloom and we have missed the lupins which will come out in a week or two – apparently they are one helluva sight. Perhaps we will see some inland as we head south again as it has been a bit warmer there. Mount Cadillac was originally named Mt Desert because it is a bald granite outcrop and it was interesting to note, as we made our way up the rather steep road (Not Recommended For Cyclists – I’ll say!) how the vegetation changed. The trees became more and more stunted and then almost disappeared. But what a view!!

The view at sea level was pretty good too

We headed back to town and the hotel and had a brief chat to the Canadians in the room next door before strolling around town and having a light meal at a restaurant near the town square. We only had a salad and an appetizer each, with a beer, which seemed not to please the young servitor who seemed a bit up himself – but maybe my perception was influenced by my hunger. The servings are really too big most of the time – at the one Italian restaurant in Boston the dish Rab had would have fed 4 – 6 people comfortably and mine would have done for 3 – 4. in that instance most people took the uneaten portion away with them – neatly packed in a foil box which made it a pretty reasonable meal but most of our meal landed up in the bin – what a waste. So we have taken to ordering appetizers or sharing dishes and this has worked pretty well.

We called up Peta tonight since we are pretty close to Canada up here. Rab and she chatted for the best part of an hour so it will be interesting to see what that will cost on the AT&T card. Not that I begrudge the cost in any way at all – in fact I feel almost guilty that we didn’t get across to Toronto to see her, or at least arrange to meet up in Montreal. She has had such a rough time over the last couple of years. . It is just a catalogue of awful events – a brother dying of AIDS within a couple of months of her mother being diagnosed with Alzheimers being just the latest in a long series of event. She says she gets depressed at times which is hardly surprising and that is why she has not written.