Saturday, March 2, 2013

FIRST VIEW OF THE FAR EAST - BANGKOK DAY#1



Sunday 9th December 1984 – Bangkok
Detail of some of the incredible work at the temples

As the tour of Buddhist temples was leaving at 08.30, we were down to breakfast pretty promptly. Lovely meal, most attractively served with marvellously carved fruit as decorations. I had a full American breakfast with waffles replacing the pancakes. Fortified, we boarded the bus and set off through the bumpy, scruffy streets of Bangkok.

The five tonne gold Buddha
The first stop was a temple where there is a solid gold Buddha, said to weigh five and a half tons!! It was only  discovered in the 50s when it was being moved from its original site. The story was that it had been covered in concrete many years ago during a period of war and had remained in hiding until a workman noticed a crack in the concrete and a gleam of gold. Quite an impressive sight. There were also four smaller Buddhas which were in the process of being gilded. Worshippers could buy small strips of gold for about two Baht – six cents – and stick them on the statues, gradually building up a layer of solid gold.
 
Back in the coach to Wat Pho, a whole series of temples, all of which are in pretty good condition. I just couldn’t get over the sight – really magnificent. Lovely tiles, inset with multi-coloured mirrors and gold foil – it is difficult to adequately describe the beauty and the detail. The centrepiece is a massive temple with an equally massive Buddha reclining. I reckon his feet, which are decorated with inlaid mother of pearl, must be six feet long, while the statue is about fifty eight yards long, as I paced it out, and between twenty and thirty feet high. Really quite an experience to see a work like this. There were stalls all around but we forbore to buy anything, strange though that may seem.

The Reclining Buddha
Detail of the inlay in the feet

Onwards  we went to the final call of the day, the King’s Temple. On the way we passed the Palace which is hundreds of acres in the middle of the city, surrounded by a moat and completely self-sufficient as far as the basic necessities are concerned, with paddy fields, cattle, maize etc. The King’s Temple, built of white marble was another beautiful building and there was an interesting collection of Buddhas, from many countries. The monks were all chanting mantras prior to having lunch. Quite a spectacle.

On the way back to the hotel we made the requisite commercial stop at the Rama Lapidary Centre for some sapphires and rubies but found nothing we really liked. Got back to the hotel at oneish and after I had dropped off my films for processing at the corner shop, we browsed around the shops in the hotel and finally got hold of a couple of carats of square cut sapphires at a reasonable price so that Rab can have her ring made back home. Back to the room for a rest and a shower (and for me to catch up with this diary!) and then back to River Place for the silk dress which Rab had her eye on for Z$85 – very nice too.

We went tonight by coach with another TFC party who have been touring India and who we will cross paths with again in Pattaya and Hong Kong. This was an additional tour for about Z$20 each to a seafood restaurant. There was a three course meal – a very thin and somewhat tasteless soup, a grilled fish between four people with a tasty, pineapple flavoured fried rice followed by a delicious basket of mixed crustaceans – half a dozen small prawns, three large ones, two small rock lobsters, a crab and six each of clams and mussels. There was a rockess (female bogan/redneck) from Botswana in the other group who didn’t like sea food, so I had hers and a few leftovers from our group too. Delicious. On display on ice at the entrance was the biggest crayfish I have ever seen. It must have been three foot long and was as thick as my calf. Huge, but not for eating. All a very good day – most enjoyable. Must call it a day now – we are off early in the morning.

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